TRAVELS AND TRIBULATIONS # 335

May 18, 2022

While plotting our course back to the Church of the Pieta, a church associated with Vivaldi, I noticed another interesting sanctuary just a little out of our way and decided to add it to today’s exploration itinerary.

The Church of San Lorenzo dates to the 9th century.  It was rebuilt in 1580-1616.  The church suffered damages during the Napoleonic War, and was closed to the public in 1865.  In the early twentieth century it underwent a series of archaeological excavations in search of the remains of Marco Polo, who, rumor has it, asked on his death bed to be buried in the church.  It underwent, according to an organization called Ocean Space, extensive renovation form 2016-2019 and was reopened to the public in 2020.  While Bonnie and I were there this morning, all of the doors were closed, and a group of women in the square in front of it told me that the church is never open.  Further research shows it is open Wednesday through Sunday, so tomorrow we are going to take another look.  Online pictures show an incredible worship space.  Below is the exterior of the church.

From there we headed back towards San Marco Piazza and the Church of the Pieta, coming in from the back side.  We saw another view of the building we call “the leaning tower of Venice.”

And for all of you fans of Donna Leon’s Venice detective, Guido Brunetti (and that means you especially Mary Booth) we found the Questora where he works.

Our main objective today was started in 1346 with early and continued emphasis on protection of children and support of motherhood.  In 1703 Vivaldi began teaching violin at the church.  The centerpiece in the ceiling is entitled “The Coronation of Mary.”

The moving pulpit

Before heading for our flat we went back for another look at the “hyperrealist sculptures” of  Carole Feuerman (see TnT 333).  These figures are even more incredible at the second viewing.  The seams in the swim suits, the water droplets on the skin, the curls of hair sticking out from under swim caps all seem real, until you touch them, and then it is resin transformed into incredible artwork.

We returned to our flat earlier than in previous days and spent the afternoon napping, reading, and playing cards (Mom beat me again, fair and square, and now leads 4 games to 2 – but tomorrow is another day).

TTFN

Love,

Dad/Pappy/David

* * * * *

There was a lot napping today because our nights were restless. I woke at 4 and went to the couch. About that time there was lightning and thunder followed by another good downpour . About 6 I went back to the bed to try and sleep some more. Slept some and soon after we were both up. As he worked on the computer I lay on the couch and slept some more. 

Finally when were both awake enough so I fixed us a pancetta, toast and eggs breakfast. While he shaved I cleaned up the kitchen. Then, I bathed in the sink while he showered. We brushed our teeth, dressed and packed up our stuff and headed out. Only got off in the wrong direction a couple of times, having to restart our path and the phone once. We met a couple and their daughter who were also trying to follow the directions on the phone which was leading into a canal. It does that a lot or it leads you into a wall. We laughed and told them it happens to us. The Dad wanted to go ahead another way and the daughter, “Oh Dad” she didn’t want to walk that far, haha. We commented that if we had been with any of you kids, say Michael, one of you would be doing the guiding with the phone. We wished them luck and we headed off as they to did.

It was interesting because beside the closed church there was a large 3 story building almost a block long which was an old folks home. The note on the door said two visitors per resident. There was a very elderly lady sitting in a wheelchair outside and a lady probably in her middle age talking to her. The elderly lady didn’t even seem to know the other lady was talking to her even though the younger woman was leaning up and talking directly into the older woman’s ear. Very sad.

The church we paid 3 euros each to go into was set up for a music concert that was to happen later. It was interesting the chairs all around and the pews each had a number attached to each seat. There were over 200 numbered seats. Also, sitting over on one side of the church near the front was a pulpit up high on a stand that was a “mobile pulpit”. It was very ornate. I guess when they have concerts it is moved out of the way. There was a piano of some sort sitting on the platform.

The resin sculptures are really quite amazing. Yesterday I had noticed a door at the back that seem to lead outside, so today I went through it and there was a small garden area and one more statue.

Both of us being very tired we headed back home. As we walked back we noticed that the fruit stand was again set up in the campo.  

After returning home , it was after 12 and lunchtime. He had food he had gotten at the coop yesterday for his lunch but I didn’t. So he walked outside and just across the street and got me a small ham and cheese sandwich and a turkey sandwich on which he had put mustard. The buns were nice and crusty and about the size of a hamburger bun. I cut the ham and cheese in half and warmed it in the skillet and ate it with some chips.  I put the other half and the turkey sandwich in fridge for tomorrow.

Then, it was time for some serious nap time. After our nap we got ready and went to supper about 6. I had spaghetti with tomato chilli sauce. It was  spicy but not too much. There were onions in it. Quite tasty. Tonight beside bread sticks we got some crusty bread. During our supper a man came up in the street and standing behind us took out what seem to be a concertina, small accordion, and tried to serenade all the people sitting at the café. He didn’t get tips or a good response so after one number he moved somewhere else.

After Dad had his coffee, we walked for a little while then stopped and got some gelato. I love the amoretta (?) cherry, big black sweet cherries but not too sweet, and tiramesue. He had chocolate and some kind with peanuts in it. 

Well, we got home in time to see half of Miami CSI and NCIS.  It was the one where Bishop’s husband was in the middle East and there was a bombing and Tony got poison ivy.

Well, almost time to take the nightly pills and head off to bed. The temperature was much cooler today with a nice breeze. I think the rain early this morning helped. Walking was not as draining. Not looking forward to the almost 100 you guys are having.

Love and miss you all. Mom, Granny and Bonnie

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