Travels And Tribulations: QUARANTINE BLOG # 180

September 26, 2020

The first time Bonnie and I went to Madeira we were not scheduled to go there, but a storm in the area of Ponta Delgada in the Azores caused a change of schedule. We got to Ponta Delgada a year later, but as they say, “It is an ill wind that blows no good.” This first of three stops at Madeira quickly became one of our favorite visits. When there is a safe way to travel again, we hope to do an extended visit at Christmas time (you’ll see part of the reason at the end of this rambling). Well, off to Madeira.

2000 years ago Phoenicians, Romans and North-Africans make references to what could be the archipelago of Madeira in ancient texts. Quintus Sertorius, a Roman statesman, “met seamen recently arrived from Atlantic islands, two in number.” Details seem to indicate Madeira and Porto Santo, which is much smaller than Madeira itself, and to the north east of it.

In addition to this shadowy report, the story of the discovery of Madeira has many versions. Some say the nearby island of Porto Santo was discovered first and then the 21 miles of ocean to its west was sailed and escapees or explorers landed on Madeira.

Let’s begin with the most fanciful.

Porto Santo was discovered by Seve Ballesteros around the year 2000. Seve designed Porto Santo Golfe, which plays along spectacular cliff tops. It opened in 2004.

The signature hole on the 7,041 yard par 72 course is Number 13, playing 175 yards over an open chasm.

That’s probably not the way it happened.

My favorite story of the discovery of Madeira is reported by many sources. I call it “Romeo and Juliet on the Bounding Main.”

Robert Machin was a 14th century English adventurer, who is credited by some with discovering Madeira.

Robert was an English aristocrat who fell in love with Anne d’Arfet. Anne was of a higher social standing than Robert, and the two had to elope. Their ship was driven away from the coast of France by a storm, and after thirteen days they landed on Madeira. Anne died from exhaustion, and Robert died few days later. The crew of the ship made it to North Africa, where they are captured by the Moors. One of their fellow prisoners was rescued by a servant of Prince Henry the Navigator of Portugal. When Prince Henry heard of the story he sent out an expedition that found the island of Madeira.

All speculation aside, we know that the Portugese discovered Porto Santo and Madeira and appointed Bartolomeu Perestrelo the first governor of Porto Santo.

History reports that Perestrelo released a female rabbit that had littered on the voyage, along with her offspring, which multiplied catastrophically in a desert island ecosystem that had evolved in isolation and had never known a flightless mammal. The loss of the native flora laid the island slopes open to erosion and colonization by European weeds that accompanied the settlers. As a result, the Porto Santo of 1400 is as lost to us as is the world before the Noachian flood.

During the first centuries of settlement, life on Porto Santo was harsh, owing to the scarcity of potable water, the depredations of feral rabbits, and constant attacks by Barbary Coast pirates and French privateers.

Speaking of feral rabbits, do you remember when President Jimmy Carter was attacked by a “killer rabbit”? True story. Check it out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=63&v=i4p6_G4gQpk&feature=emb_logo.

In 1419 Joao Gongalves Zarco and Tristao Vaz Teixeira landed on the island, and colonized it for Portugal’s Prince Henry the Navigator.

Before anything could be planted, the thickly forested island first had to be cleared. Fire was used, and the ash, when added to the virgin soil, produced a land of agricultural potential. But before it could be put in crops, one additional problem had to be resolved.

Although water was abundant on the island, rainfall was irregular, especially in the lower, flatter areas where agriculture would be undertaken. The solution was a “simple” matter of redirecting the flow of water by gravitational force from a higher point to another point at a lower elevation. Because of the trade winds the rain is more evenly distributed on north side of Madeira than it is on the south side of the island, and precipitation is heaviest above 4,000 feet.

Slaves were forced to build the levadas, the irrigation system. The irrigation works, which include 25 miles of tunnels, transformed Madeira into an agricultural paradise. Today the 1,350 miles of levadas provide hydro-electric power. Check out this video clip I made: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpppttOLBcg.

Sugar cane was introduced into Madeira from Sicily. The juice was first squeezed from the plants in hand-operated presses. Later Henry constructed a water-driven mill, or engenho, in Madeira.

By 1455 the annual production was in excess of 100 tons. By 1472 more than 2,500 tons were being produced, and two decades later, 13,000 tons. Madeira was soon supplying most of western Europe with sugar.

I will tell more of Madeira’s story next Saturday, but let’s close with some pictures showing the beauty of the island.

Nun's Village

Straight ahead, in the middle of the picture is the old road up to the top of the mountain. The new road we took in a tour bus wasn't much better.

Botanical Gardens

The fishing village of Camara de Lobos

This is the chapel where fishermen's wives went to pray for the safety of their husbands while they were out. It is on a street with businesses, and easy to miss, but we chanced on it, and enjoyed the peaceful sanctuary. The chapel as it is today is from a remodel in 1723.

Christmas: Funchal is the most incredibly decorated city for Christmas I've ever seen. There are no politically correct worries. The Nativity, Santa Claus, and modern celebrations are all featured. You can see from these few pix that the whole city is decorated.